In Conversation with Master Watchmaker Philippe Dufour

Philippe Dufour needs no introduction in horological circles. The Swiss independent watchmaker, now in his late seventies, is widely regarded as the greatest living practitioner of traditional watchmaking. His Simplicity and Duality watches command prices in the hundreds of thousands at auction, and his waiting list has been closed for years.

We were fortunate to spend an afternoon with Mr. Dufour at his workshop in the Vallée de Joux, discussing his craft, his concerns about the future of watchmaking, and what makes a truly great timepiece.

WristShare: Mr. Dufour, thank you for taking the time to speak with us. Let's start with a simple question: what makes a great watch?

Philippe Dufour: A great watch is one that will still be running in 200 years. That's the standard I hold myself to. Every component must be finished to the highest level, not for aesthetics—though that matters—but for longevity. A properly finished surface resists corrosion and wear. Sharp edges are removed so they don't catch and damage other parts. This is functional finishing, not decoration.

WS: Your watches are famous for their hand-finishing. Can you explain why this matters?

PD: Machine finishing is consistent, yes, but it's also lifeless. When I finish a surface by hand, I'm responding to the metal. Every piece of steel has its own character—variations in hardness, grain structure. A skilled craftsman adjusts their technique accordingly. The result is a surface that's alive, that catches light in a way no machine can replicate.

But more importantly, hand-finishing requires understanding. To finish a component properly, you must understand its function. You must know where stress concentrates, where wear occurs, where lubrication must be retained. This knowledge is being lost.

WS: Lost how?

PD: The big brands have industrialized. They use CNC machines and robots for most operations. The workers who remain are specialists—they do one task, over and over. They don't understand the whole watch. When I trained, we learned everything. We made our own tools. We understood metallurgy, physics, chemistry. Today's watchmakers are often just assemblers.

WS: That sounds pessimistic. Is there hope for traditional watchmaking?

PD: There is always hope. I see young people who are passionate, who want to learn the old ways. The challenge is that proper training takes ten years, minimum. And during those ten years, you earn very little. In a world of instant gratification, few have the patience.

But those who do—they will carry the tradition forward. And there will always be collectors who appreciate true craftsmanship, who can tell the difference between a hand-finished watch and an industrial product.

WS: What advice would you give to collectors?

PD: Learn. Educate your eye. Visit workshops if you can. Look at watches under magnification. Once you've seen true hand-finishing, you can never unsee it. Industrial finishing will always look dead to you afterward.

And don't be seduced by complications. A simple watch, beautifully made, is worth more than a complicated watch poorly executed. The Simplicity—my most famous watch—has just hours, minutes, and seconds. But every surface is finished to the highest standard. That's what matters.

WS: You mentioned your waiting list is closed. Will you ever make watches again?

PD: (laughs) I'm still making watches! I work every day. But I'm slow now—my hands aren't as steady as they were. Each watch takes longer. And I want to spend time with my family, my grandchildren. So I make fewer pieces.

But I will never stop completely. Watchmaking is not what I do—it's who I am. When I stop making watches, I stop living.

WS: One final question: what watch do you wear?

PD: My own, of course! A Simplicity in rose gold. I've worn it every day for fifteen years. It keeps excellent time. And every time I look at it, I remember the hundreds of hours I spent creating it. That's the true luxury—wearing something you made with your own hands.

Our sincere thanks to Mr. Dufour for his time and insights. His watches occasionally appear at auction through Christie's and Phillips. For those interested in experiencing exceptional independent watchmaking, WristShare's collection includes pieces from several independent makers inspired by Mr. Dufour's philosophy.